Legend says a poor man in Havana had nothing to feed his family, so he shredded and cooked his own old clothes — and by some miracle, they transformed into a glorious meat stew. The truth is less magical but equally compelling: ropa vieja traveled from the Canary Islands to Cuba with Spanish settlers, where it shed its original chickpeas and saffron for tomatoes, peppers, and the bold spices of the Caribbean. It became Cuba's national dish, a symbol of making something magnificent from the humblest of cuts.

• 2 lbs flank steak
• 1 large onion, sliced into strips
• 1 green bell pepper, sliced into strips
• 1 red bell pepper, sliced into strips
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 can (14 oz) crushed tomatoes
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
• 1/2 cup pimiento-stuffed green olives
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• Salt and pepper to taste
• Fresh cilantro for garnish

1. Place the flank steak in a large pot, cover with water, and bring to a boil. Skim the foam, then reduce to a simmer and cook for about 90 minutes until fork-tender. Pull the meat out and let it cool enough to handle, but save that broth — you'll need about a cup of it.
2. Using two forks (or your hands if you're not afraid of a little heat), shred the beef along the grain into long, ragged threads. This is the soul of the dish — those imperfect, rough-torn strands.
3. Heat olive oil in a large, deep skillet over medium heat. Cook the onion and pepper strips until they soften and start to caramelize at the edges, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and let it bloom for 30 seconds.
4. Stir in the tomato paste, cumin, and smoked paprika. Let everything toast together until the kitchen smells like Havana in the best possible way — about 1 minute.
5. Pour in the white wine and let it reduce by half, scraping up any fond. Add the crushed tomatoes and a cup of your reserved beef broth.
6. Tumble the shredded beef into the sauce. Toss in the olives. Stir everything together, reduce the heat to low, and let it simmer uncovered for 20-25 minutes until the sauce thickens and the meat has soaked up all that flavor.
7. Taste for salt and pepper, shower with fresh cilantro, and serve alongside white rice, black beans, and maduros (sweet fried plantains). A cold Cristal beer wouldn't hurt either.