Multiple small towns in rural Quebec claim to have invented poutine in the late 1950s, and the truth is probably lost to history and provincial pride. What’s certain is that it was considered lowbrow junk food for decades — Quebecois chefs were embarrassed by it. That changed in the 2000s when a new generation of cooks embraced poutine as cultural heritage and began elevating it with foie gras, lobster, and truffle. The dish’s three-component simplicity is deceptive: bad fries, wrong cheese, or lukewarm gravy will expose a cook immediately. The cheese curds must be fresh enough to squeak against your teeth — that squeak is the quality test every Quebecois knows.

• 1kg russet potatoes, cut into thick fries
• Vegetable oil for double frying
• 300g fresh cheese curds (less than 24 hours old if possible)
• Gravy: 2 tbsp butter, 2 tbsp flour, 500ml beef and chicken stock (mixed), 1 tbsp ketchup, 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper
• Salt

1. Cut potatoes into thick fries, about 1cm wide. Soak in cold water for at least 1 hour to remove starch. Drain and dry thoroughly.
2. First fry: heat oil to 150°C (300°F). Fry the potatoes in batches for 5–6 minutes until cooked through but still pale. Drain and let cool for at least 15 minutes.
3. Make the gravy: melt butter in a saucepan. Whisk in flour to make a roux. Cook for 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in the stock. Add ketchup and Worcestershire sauce. Simmer until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Season with salt and pepper. Keep hot.
4. Second fry: heat oil to 190°C (375°F). Fry the potatoes again in batches for 3–4 minutes until golden and crispy. Drain on paper towels. Salt immediately.
5. Assemble fast: pile the hot fries on a plate or in a bowl. Scatter the cheese curds generously over the top.
6. Pour the hot gravy over everything. The gravy should be hot enough to soften the curds but not so much that they melt completely. Serve immediately — poutine cannot wait.