Hyderabadi biryani was born in the kitchens of the Nizam, the ruler of Hyderabad, one of the wealthiest kingdoms in history. The Hyderabadi style is distinct from all others because it uses the kacchi (raw) technique — raw marinated meat is layered with par-cooked rice and slow-cooked together under a dough-sealed lid. The dum process forces the steam to cycle through the layers, cooking the meat in its own juices while the rice absorbs every drop of flavor. Lucknow has its own refined version, Kolkata adds potatoes, and Malabar uses fish, but Hyderabadi biryani remains the one that food lovers travel for.

• 500g lamb or goat on the bone, cut into pieces
• 2 cups basmati rice, soaked 30 minutes
• 1 cup plain yogurt
• 3 large onions, thinly sliced and fried golden (birista)
• 2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
• 4 green chilies, slit
• 1 tsp Hyderabadi biryani masala (or garam masala)
• ½ tsp turmeric
• 1 tsp red chili powder
• Generous pinch of saffron soaked in 3 tbsp warm milk
• Fresh mint leaves (a large handful)
• Fresh cilantro (a large handful)
• 3 tbsp ghee
• Juice of 1 lemon
• Dough for sealing: flour and water mixed into a thick rope
• Salt to taste

1. Marinate the meat in yogurt, ginger-garlic paste, half the fried onions, green chilies, biryani masala, turmeric, chili powder, lemon juice, mint, cilantro, and salt. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours — overnight transforms it.
2. Par-cook the soaked rice in heavily salted boiling water until it’s 70% done — still firm in the center. Drain immediately.
3. In a heavy-bottomed pot, spread the marinated meat in an even layer at the bottom. Do not cook it first — this is the kacchi method.
4. Layer the par-cooked rice over the meat. Drizzle the saffron milk in streaks across the surface. Scatter the remaining fried onions, a few mint leaves, and dots of ghee.
5. Roll the dough into a long rope and press it around the rim of the pot. Press the lid firmly onto the dough to create an airtight seal.
6. Cook on high heat for 5 minutes to build steam, then reduce to the lowest possible heat for 45 minutes. Do not open the lid. Do not peek.
7. Break the seal at the table. Gently fold the layers together, being careful not to break the rice. Serve with raita and mirchi ka salan (green chili curry).